Ode to Griffin AirClick USB – Radio Frequency PC Media Remote

This little bugger just so totally rocks!!!  IMHO the most compelling aspects are:

  • It’s cheap :). They tend to go for around $10-$25. There are still some out there on eBay from time to time (not now) and also Amazon at the moment.
  • It’s Radio Frequency technology – so you can zap iTunes to the next song from around the corner or out in the yard!!  Even my fancy iMON VFD remote is Infrared based (limited by line-of-site) and that winds up being a deal breaker in my environment… couch faces projector wall away from the PC, IR = major fail! 🙁
  • It’s simple! – there are only the 5 most critical buttons to distract you… none of that typical Windows Media Center remote overload to worry about here… Play/Pause, Previous, Next & Volume Up/Down, that’s it.

Unfortunately, the vendor, Griffin, has chosen to discontinue this little wonder.  If you’re interested in driving your PC based Media Players, make sure get the USB version, not the iPod version which appears to still be in production. Take note, the transmitters that come with the readily available iPod version are 100% compatible with the USB receiver. This is a nice way for us to obtain replacement transmitters to have around.  Just check eBay… I just got a pair of clickers, including the iPod receiver and an interesting Velcro mount for $4.50, including shipping!!! Griffin is nice enough to continue hosting their support page with drivers <whew>.  These native drivers work on any 32bit Windows since XP (more on 64bit support below). And Dmitry Fedorov has been keeping the dream alive by showing us how to build our own little application-specific .Net plugins for the basic Griffin driver API. AirClickOk so that’s all fine and dandy, now let’s get to the good stuff!!
I currently like iTunes and VLC and Windows 7 64bit and I’ve found a couple free wares that well, make beautiful music together (couldn’t resist 🙂

iTunesControl – In his infinite wisdom, Mr. Jobs hasn’t seen fit to support global Windows Media Keys in iTunes … fortunately for us, Carson created iTunesControl. Within the HotKeys section, one must simply click the desired key event (e.g. “Next Track”) and then press the corresponding AirClick button to make the assignment (Don’t forget to hit the Apply button).  It also provides a very nifty, super configurable Heads Up Display that I absolutely love. To be more specific, I only mapped Play/Pause, Next & Previous this way.  I left volume up/down defaulted to Windows global volume which provides convenient system wide volume control no matter what’s active (see last paragraph).

Now, the dark clouds started rolling in when I upgraded to Win 7 64bit and realized that the basic Griffin software install does not happen under 64bit, zip, nada, no-go <waaahh>… then I found this next little gem, affectionately called…

AirClick Interface Script” – The way Jared explains it, fortunately for us, at least the HID layer of the Griffin driver is operational under 64bit. So he wrote an AutoHotKey script which picks up on the HID messages coming from the AirClick and turns those into Windows Media Keys.  The WinMedia Keys are then caught by iTunesControl and iTunes immediately does our bidding, brilliant! Jared provides his original script source as well as a convenient compiled exe version that you just run and go.

AirClick_DiagramNOTE: Jared’s script maps a 4 second press of the volume-down to PC go night-night. To me this isn’t so handy and I much rather have a repetitive volume adjust when held down. So I tweaked his script a little, find that here (ready-to-run EXE version). If you wish to run this raw script or perhaps compile some of your own tweaks, then you must use the original AutoHotKey. The newer “AutoHotKey_L” branch would not work for me. The last thing I’ll mention is subtle but neato… Jared’s script actually checks to see which window is active.  If none of the well knowners is focused (VLC, Winamp, MediaPlayerClassic, PowerDVD), then it defaults to firing Windows Media Key events.  The nice thing is, if say VLC is active, then Jared’s script fires VLC specific play/pause, rewind & fast forward keys … so if I’m bouncing around the house, iTunes is getting the WinMedia events… if I’m sitting down watching a movie, I just have to make sure VLC is the active window and iTunes is left alone, perfectly intuitive! UPDATE 10 March 2012 It’s a nice pastime to watch a photo slideshow while listening to tunez. Previously I’d been using the Google Photo Screensaver. But we soon wanted the ability to back up and stare at one of the slideshow photos, via the remote. I found Photo Screensaver Plus by Kamil Svoboda to fit very well. Among other very robust functionality, it supports left cursor to back up in the photo stream and space to pause the slideshow. With that, I edited my new AutoHotKey script (exe) to provide the following:

  • when slideshow screensaver is not running, hold down play/pause remote button to start up screensaver slideshow
  • when slideshow is running, reverse button goes to the previous image and pauses the slideshow
  • when slideshow is paused, play/pause restarts the slideshow
  • otherwise all buttons pass through to media events as usual

I really like how you can dual purpose the buttons depending on the context… that’s powerful. Kamil’s screensaver also provides a hotkey to copy the current image to a favorites folder, very cool.  And a hotkey to edit the image’s EXIF metadata – Name, Description & Comment.  The nifty thing there is we also publish our photos via a Zenphoto web image gallery. Once we edit the EXIF info in the screensaver, a little PowerShell script of mine refreshes ZenPhoto’s MySQL database entry for that image so the new image name and comments are immediately available for viewing and SEARCHING via the web gallery’s search facility, nice!  The PowerShell script uses Microsoft’s PowerShellPack to provide effortless FileSystemWatcher integration. We really do have everything we need to mix and match unintentional building blocks into our own satisfying hobby solutions these days with amazingly little effort. I mean, who could’ve anticipated using a screensaver of all things as a data entry front end?   Hot Corners – This free tool does the job and AutoIT source code is provided.

Going Portrait!

Do you realize how freakin’ cool it is to be able to hit ALT-F1 on a table in SSMS and be able to immediately view all of the output without futzing around in all the little result-set scroll bars!?! There’s 6 tables that come back from sp_help and now they have the room they deserve… the visual query plan tool is more horizontal so I have a feeling that’s going to take a little hit… we’ll see. Great for dual pane WPF dev in VS2010 too… with a typical visual pane up top, there’s now tons more room for raw XAML in the bottom … and XAML gets verbose in a hurry so this was becoming a critical annoyance for me. And not only dev oriented activities, Outlook feels better too… and it’s amazing how many web pages seem like they were made for portait… so nice to see a whole page at once w/o a scroll bar. Bottom line: THE most dramatic yet drop dead easy computer improvement I’ve done in a long time. clip_image001

HighPoint RocketRAID 620 indeed works for Hackintosh

Update [2011 Aug 6]: The original drivers appear to work just fine under Lion v10.7
Please see here for background on the “main PC = NAS” approach this hardware facilitates.
And here for my other Hackintosh tribulations with getting my old graphics card to work.
I’m very satisfied for a $60 part… the drivers loaded right up under both Win7 and OS X v10.6.6 (and 10.7 currently)
As a side note: This all works well in tandem with Parallels Desktop v6’s Boot Camp virtualization facility where I can dual boot into my one sole Windows 7 install natively or via a Parallels VM under OS X (I know VMware has something identical but from what I’ve read, Parallels still has the edge on performance).
The drivers on the install disc were up to date… and I’m taking it as a good sign that they haven’t found need to update them for over a year now.
Windows 7 Driver – currently: v1.1.9.1221, 12/21/2009
OS X Driver – currently: v1.1.0, 12/22/2009
There is the usual BIOS based boot time configuration screen you can pop into to manage your arrays.
And you can also install a management “Web GUI” … this is obviously driven by a mini web server that runs under your OS on a certain port… this is NOT plugging an ethernet cable into the RAID card itself… it is not that sophisticated… the whole thing is very bare bones, very old school but seems to have the basics covered (time will tell)… it’s loaded via an old Installshield style setup.exe that I recognize from the early 90’s … the web screens themselves are completely boring old school stuff which stands out in a bad way these days but truly, <ValleyGirlMode> whatevers </ValleyGirlMode>.
looking at the benchmark from CrystalDiskMark… those sequentials look respectable but I guess the other rates are pretty poor???
those specs are running the RocketRAID on these drives: Hitachi Deskstar HD32000 IDK /7K (2TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5″ Internal)
image       image
The card itself is very miniscule… about 2.75″ inches square (see below)… it is a “1 lane” card (i.e. “X1” in the PCI-express common parlance)… but it is PCIe 2.0 so you absolutely want to put it in a 2.0 capable slot if you can and on my mobo that is a x16 lane slot… which “looks” like a waste but is totally fine for me because I’m not a gamer so I’m not using that secondary PCIe x16 slot for an SLI gfx card or anything useful anyway.
DSCF5030 - closeup
Checkout this last photo… I realized the RocketRAID card’s bracket alignment was off quite a bit (too short)… after installing, the card would slide itself loose of the slot… so much so that the mobo’s electric disconnect warning light for that slot came on… the bracket for my graphics card right next door doesn’t exhibit anything close to this height deficit so I’ve got to assume the RocketRAID is a bit out of spec… after scratching my head for a minute, the obvious solution that presented itself was to move the bracket under my case’s card stability rail… it seems like my Antec Skeleton’s card rail particularly lends itself to this approach… I wonder if a normal case’s bracket screw down area would ?
P1050814 - closeup

Projector Roundup 2011 Q1

For my own comparison notes, I got an "Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 720" for $1000 back in May 2009 (according to ProjectorCentral.com it’s already discontinued, I’m not surprised, this is a rapidly evolving technology segment)… so our specs are: 720p, 1600 Lumens, 10,000 contrast, 3000 hour bulb, 2 yr warranty. The Epson Home Cinema’s seem to be hanging strong in the top 10 most popular slots over the last few years. The Epson 8350 seems to be their latest best in the $1000 range ($1200 street 14 Feb 2011) 1080p, 2000 lumens, 50,000 contrast, 4000 hr bulb, 2 yr warranty. Reviewers seem to indicate the Epson 8700 UB ("ultra black") is well worth the extra bux ($2100 current street) 1080p, 1600 Lumens (1800+ according to review), 200,000 contrast, 4000 hr bulb, 2yr warranty. The comparison to long standing champ "Panasonic PT-AE4000U" at the end of this review is interesting: One thing to really look for is the *free bulb* (~$300 value) & other mail in rebate specials that vendors use to drive attention for higher end models, especially for the first year or so. I was kicking myself because I had just missed the window of opportunity for these rebates on mine by the time I was ready to buy. I feel like a free bulb takes a lot of the worry out of these suckers… they say about 3yrs a bulb for average use… 3 yrs is just long enough that you’re going to loathe buying a new bulb vs a whole new projector technology. 6 yrs is great peace of mind. The 8700UB just came out in Oct.2010 and apparently the free bulb offer goes to March *2012* and there’s also a $100 mail in rebate that goes through March *2011*

150W Auto DC to AC Inverter with USB

Here’s the one I got: image Input: DC 12V
Output: AC 110-120V, 60Hz, 150W
            USB DC 5V, 500mA I use it for our camera battery chargers when we go on road trips.
It’s a pretty compact arrangement to plug a cam.batt.charger into this and forget about it.
And it’s nice to be able to toss our iPods, Smart Phones, etc on the USB port. I’ve read that charging camera batteries requires more juice than you can get out of USB,
and that’s probably why those are all A/C wall plugs only. They don’t show it in the picture but on the reverse side of the unit is a little 20v external fuse (i.e. easily user serviceable).
You don’t always see that kind of feature with these kinds of cheapo things. There’s actually a little fan in that box which is probably a good thing.
Unfortunately you can hear it when it cranks up… it’s not a deafening noise but you can hear it. I actually don’t like Xoxide that well… they definitely bungled my last order… you might want to source this somewhere else… the model number appears to be “DAU-150”… I can’t identify a manufacturer name anywhere on the outside… Here’s a Google Search for similar items (inverter is a key word to include in your searches)… there’s plenty of good options out there… Here’s one on eBay that looks just like mine but also sports a dual Euro/US compatible AC socket.

Overclocking ‘Skeletor’ Q9450 – Round 2

(see round 1 notes for full specs) After watching a quick youtube of a guy that hit 3.9Ghz (485MHz FSB) where he didn’t bat and eye about leaving his DDR2 at something around 1000MHz, I decided to copy his lead and give up on the 1:1 DRAM:FSB thing and just go for the CPU gusto… I wasn’t seeing much love at 485… it would somehow boot if I goosed the DRAM to 1349 or something like that… but Win7 would reset after boot logo… lower DRAM frequencies wouldn’t even boot until I set it to auto and it came back with 971 🙁 I’m at 420 FSB with 1400 DRAM now and holding in Win7 for a nice stretch here… that’s around 3.4GHz which is at respectable 26% increase… we shall see. Primary OC BIOS settings (gleaned from here)

  • CPU Ratio = 8
  • C1E = disabled (I have no idea)
  • Max CPUID = disabled (ditto)
  • FSB = 420
  • FSB Strap = Auto
  • PCIE Freq = 100
  • DRAM freq = 1400’ish
  • CPU Voltage = 1.39375 (he read that was the safe max somewhere)
  • DRAM Voltage = 1.8 … haven’t played with this at all yet to see if lower would suffice

Temps reported from Everest:
Motherboard    34 °C  (93 °F)
CPU    33 °C  (91 °F)
CPU #1 / Core #1    44 °C  (111 °F)
CPU #1 / Core #2    44 °C  (111 °F)
CPU #1 / Core #3    43 °C  (109 °F)
CPU #1 / Core #4    41 °C  (106 °F)
imageimage

Blu-ray Burner & Media Shopping

Burner: Pioneer BDR-206

Media:

  • Vinpower’s “Optical Quantum Best Print” product line is competitively priced and covers the specialty gamut well (hub printable, etc)
    • In particular, the Water-Resistant Media using “Liquid-Defense” version sounds pretty cool: The OQBP water-resistant media is a new innovation using nanoparticle technology. It secures the printed matter to the disc preventing moisture from separating the ink which causes smearing and bleeding.
    • Rated at 4x for BD-R *BUT* RunTechMedia.com says – “This media can record up to 8x speed in certain 8x or higher speed Blu-ray burners, please refer compatibility list for more info.” and goes on to list the previous gen Pioneer BDR-205 as capable of 10x with these discs (sweet 🙂
    • Google Shopping Search 
    • RunTechMedia.com has competitive prices
      • OQBDR04LDWIP (White, Hub Printable, with Liquid Defense) 10pack = $30 ($3 a disc is a little rich for my purposes, i.e. photo backups initially)
      • OQBDR04GWIP-H (*GLOSSY* White, Hub, NOT water proof) 25 pack = $46.25 ($1.85 is top end of ok in my book, fair tradeoff if I do want to print something for friends)
      • *NOTE*: VinpowerDigital.com doesn’t promote all the various formats they actually manufacture…I originally missed that there was even a glossy version available… if you’re not up for the top end pricey Liquid Defense, I absolutely recommend *GLOSSY* white finish at least… the plain white (i.e. “matt”) finish I’ve tried once on another generic brand was much less impressive… it only ups the cost of the 25 pack by $6.24 over the non-glossy format (OQBDR04WIP-H) and I think it’s totally worth it.
      • RunTechMedia had solid eMail sales support and actually price matched Provantage on the Pioneer burner, for a markdown of $40 (schwing!)
      • They charge $9.55 for APO *PRIORITY* shipping on single spindle case qtys… that’s fair
      • fyi, even though their confirmation email listed depressing "Media Mail", my package did arrive promptly via Priority as quoted.

[SOLVED!] Photoshop CS5 – Detected Video Card: Blank

TL;DR

Just go into Help > System Info before you do anything else, that’s it.

TS;WM

Unbelievable but this works 100% of the time on my current rig running Photoshop CS5 on Windows 7 with an ATI x1300 Pro graphics card (yeah yeah it’s far from a graphics superstar but honestly it does everything I need, including Photoshop 3D mode just fine thank you 🙂

Anyway, the area under Edit > Preferences > Performance > GPU Settings > Detected Video Card would always come up blank. This was absolutely driving me nuts because I want all the 3D mode stuff that only comes when Photoshop is happy with your OpenGL bits.

There are several forum posts about Photoshop being sensitive to what your video card spits out when PS does an OpenGL “capability scan”. Sure is cool to have such an easy fix… found it totally by chance. Obviously it would be nice if Adobe could find it in their hearts to run the video detect code through the System Info code but I’m sure they’ve got a ton of bigger fish to fry.

[Update: 01 Feb 2011] Photoshop CS5 on the Mac side has no such issues recognizing this card.

[Update: 04 May 2011] Photoshop CS5 64bit on Win7 seems to find the card straight away, nice. **Note: I had to install the ATI Catalyst drivers, the default Windows WDDM drivers didn’t provide the right kind of OpenGL support… for this old card Catalyst v10.2 seems to be the “legacy” cutoff point.

More keywords for Google to bring home other wayward souls: Photoshop, CS5, No Detected Video Card, Enable OpenGL Drawing, Enable Graphics Hardware Acceleration is unavailable, GPU Settings

Before After
image image

Overclocking ‘Skeletor’ Q9540 v1.0

[Update: 14 Dec 2010] Round 2 here Photos of the rig Well I just spent a few hours racking up some serious negative wifey points to see what I could see at the end of the OC rainbow 🙂 Current CPU specs:

  • Intel Q9450 Quad Core 2 “Yorkfield”
  • Got it for $382.48 including shipping back on 21 April 2008 (not quite a month after release 🙂
  • LGA 775 socket
  • stock @ 2.66GHz (333MHz FSB  x 8x multiplier = 2.66GHz)
  • The multiplier is locked on this CPU (SOP for cheaper non ‘Extreme’ Intels) so the only way I can overclock is by jacking the FSB.
  • 2 * 6MB = 12MB L2 cache
  • 333MHz * quad pumped = 1333MHz effective FSB

RAM considerations:
  • 333MHz FSB x quad pump means the minimum RAM spec is 1333MHz (= 4 x 333) to keep up with the FSB & CPU
  • DDR – this 1333 MHz is a DDR number meaning the RAM clock is actually half that (reference how the timings are typically rated under RAM Specs below)
  • FSB/RAM Ratio – that 1333 MHz is bare minimum in order to stay with a 1:1 FSB/RAM clock ratio… one can lower typically jimmy with this ratio in your OC bios settings to avoid choking your RAM while still goosing your CPU… i don’t have a feel for how practical that compromise winds up being but OC’ing is all about bragging rights and 1:1 just sounds cooler doesn’t it? 😉
  • Anyway, I decided to go with bare minimum DDR3-1333’s starting out given Q2 2008 build date prices … Hoping that I’d be able to juice them a little over spec without paying for it of course 🙂
 
Current RAM Specs:
  • G.SKILL – Part#: F3-10600CL9D-2GBNQ
  • DDR3 1333MHz, PC3-10600
  • Timings: CL 9-9-9-24 @ 666 MHz, 8-8-8-22 @ 592 MHz, 6-6-6-16 @ 444 MHz
  • 1.5V – 1.65V
  • 4 x 1GB Sticks (NewEgg was $110 per 2 x 1GB bundle = $220 total for G.SKILL 4GB DDR3 1333MHz back on 21 Apr 2008)
 
Mobo Specs:
  • ASUS P5E3 PREMIUM/WIFI-AP @n
  • BIOS: AMI (09/02/08)
  • FSB: 1600/1333/1066/800 MHz
  • Socket: LGA775
  • Chipset: X48
  • HDD Controllers:
    • Intel ICH9R = 6 x SATA 3Gb/s RAID 0,1,5,10
    • JMicron JMB363 = 2 x eSata ports & 1 PATA/IDE legacy port
  • Card Slots: 2 x PCIe 2.0 x16 @ x16        1 x PCIe 1.0 x16 @ x4, x1        1 x PCIe x1         2 x PCI 
  • RAM Slots: 4 x DIMM, 8 GB, DDR3 2000/1800/1600/1333/1066/800 Non-ECC, Un-buffered, Dual Channel
  • NICs: Dual Gigabit – Marvell 88E8056 (PCIe) & Realtek RTL8110SC (PCI)
  • Audio: Analog Devices AD1988B @ Intel 82801IB ICH9
image

OC Reality (kind of dismal actually):
  • 466 MHz FSB x 8 = 3.72 GHz wouldn’t even boot 🙂
  • 433 MHz FSB       = 3.48 GHz booted but BSOD’d pretty quick 🙂
  • 400 MHz FSB       = 3.21 GHz lasted through 10+ minutes of serious crank tests <yeah?> but BSOD’d right when I fired up Outlook after those tests <rats!>
  • 380 MHz FSB       = 3.05 GHz seemed to hold <meh, better than nothing i guess>

I then realized that my BIOS OC settings were in an auto RAM ratio selection mode… at 380 MHz FSB it was choosing 456MHz core RAM clock (= 912 MHz DDR)… which compared to 1333MHz isn’t very awe inspiring… it was easy to change the BIOS OC settings from auto to a locked RAM clock to see what happens… I set my RAM clock to 1520MHz DDR (380 MHz x 4 for quad pump) to keep 1:1 with the FSB … it booted… ran for a while, still eventually BSOD’d 🙁 well, they’re rated for 1333 and apparently I got just what I paid for. Voltage:
I’m getting mixed signals from Everest… some screens say Core CPU is 1.0xxx and others say 1.2… no sure what to take as gospel there… my ASUS P5E3 x48 mobo’s got some nice auto OC optimizer logic that I believe is choosing that voltage for me… I think I’ve read that 1.3v is tops recommended so you don’t fry it… the way I see it, once everything else like bus bandwidths are lined up, voltage is the thing to creep up for stability … I’d like to get 3.2GHz CPU to be stable and be happy with that. Temps:
I’m idling just under 50c right now with silent medium fan level so I’m sorta wondering if I went a little too heavy on the thermal paste… easy mistake… I really really watched it but that’s my first guess… the stress test at medium fan level got right up to 70c but no higher thankfully… putting it at a reasonable but audible high fan level knocked everything down about 7c which is great to watch.

Bottom line:
  1. Obviously I didn’t get anywhere with OC’ing yet so far
  2. I’ve now reapplied the thermal paste… i’m pretty clueless here… looked pretty thin smooth clean, but i really don’t know
  3. First obvious move is DDR3-1600 to keep up with 400MHz FSB = 3.2GHz CPU … 
    • Rats, Everest pulled meta data which indicates mobo only supports up to DDR3-1333… hmmm… sounds like I should just get an i7 or something 😉
    • mobo FSB is rated up to 1600 so ok there
    • [Update: 12 Nov 2010] Stumbled into the mobo manual <duh> for another reason, RAM modules up to DDR3-1800 are listed with immediate compatibility, and even up to DDR3-2000 is listed with O.C. disclaimers (e.g. air cooling on the RAM modules is recommended) … but the guys I read on 13 Dec 2010 below have a good point… all those RAM specs at 1600+ are only 1GB populated… so they weren’t filling up all the slots during those tests
    • i like to think the stability i saw running 10+ minutes under high utilization @ 400 MHz is promising
    • NewEgg 4GB (2 x 2GB) Search = <$100 ballpark (23 Sep 2010)
    • G.SKILL “RipJaws” DDR3-1600 with CL 7 timings = $75 (as of 13 Dec 2010, already dropped from $95 just a month ago 12 Nov 2010) … “Customer Choice Award Winner” sounds nice.
    • G.SKILL “Flare” DDR3-1800 w/CL7 timings = $140 (12 Nov 2010) … that might be fun… 433×4 = 1732 RAM freq would run nearly 3.5GHz CPU clock… would have to try 466 = 1864 just to see of course ;)  lots of helpful OC tips in the feedback for those modules … [Update: 13 Dec 2010] these seem like they’ve been discontinued… maybe they weren’t the real deal
    • [Update: 13 Dec 2010] This was a great, fresh, discussion that confirmed my suspicions and filled in a lot of holes for me… nutshell:
      • they’ve had trouble going above 1333 as well
      • they’ve been successful at 1400’ish x 4 sticks with 7-7-7-21 timings … that really doesn’t seem like much to write home about
      • and this deep tech: “A big part of getting the board stable at higher clocks was turning C1E off and setting the Load Line Calibration to Performance to combat the Vdroop and the board switching back and forth between the 6.0 and 8.0 multiplier”… I don’t know what half of those words mean
      • post#4 here was good too
      • they indicate that 2 sticks is better odds for success above 1333 … something about not “able to push enough info to all 4 slots at speeds above 1333 MHz”…
        • so you might want to go with 2 x 4GB’s rather than 4 x 2GB’s if you’re shooting for 8GB this round
        • or maybe think further ahead and get a 3 stick kit for Nehalem or presumably Sandy Bridge and just let than one stick hang loose for now… naww
        • NewEgg, G.SKILL page… 2 x 4GB with 7-8-7-24 timings are in the $200 ballpark but they top out at 1600 right now (as of 13 Dec 2010)… that’s a bummer…
        • actually there is nothing out there for 1800 with CL7 timings… so it would have to be 1600 I guess
        • so with all that, I could easily spring for the $75 1600 CL7 2 x 2GB kit and see what there is to see at 3.2 GHz… or I could always just stay put and throw everything into a 6 core Gulftown or wait and see what Sandy Bridge is all about… decisions, decisions… at least it’s good to feel more solid about where this board is at.